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Acid Etch Primer How Rust Your Classic - The stages The truth is that this can be a very involved, it all depends on the condition of your car is when you start the process, for this article, we will assume that your car is in excellent condition, we 'll take it from the start. To begin, we make an inspection of your classic car, I call it walking around, all so you do not walk around the car, we will determine what must be done to solve the rust problems that we walk around the car, it may take some time, do not rush. First, we'll ride in the car on a creeper, it allows us to examine all the usual suspects on a conventional car, it is generally the same across all products manufactured, so let's blow this thing, from First we'll search on the underside of the trunk area, and we'll move forward from there. In the trunk of the car you will normally find holes in the area of the main trunk, and lateral extensions, no manufacture a floor constructed of one piece of the trunk back in the day, and the lateral extensions have been very susceptible to rust, these are the parts that connect to each side of the floor of the main trunk. I'm also assuming you've done this right and your doing a restoration of the car, and he is just back from blasting, it's time to make real rust on the car is when the factory would have done if they had the technology to do so. You'll need to take a screwdriver to pry under the car with, or if you have a metal scribe, you can also use it, what you are looking for bee is a region you can drill a hole through, if you can drill a hole in the metal, it must be replaced. It's the process we follow as we move through the rest of the car after finishing the boot, and you know what must be done about it, you can write on a piece of paper what needs to be fixed is what we'll do it for the whole process. Next we move to the interior of the car, here we'll look at the floor of the car, now if you have just a small hole you can patch with a piece of metal the same size as the rest of the floor the car, if you have a hole you can stick your fist, replace the flooring throughout the car, take no shortcuts you want to be fair. Next, let's take a look at the rocker panels, and with them, I'd say you should always replace them, they are the lowest hanging pieces of the car, and they take much abuse, so it suffices to replaced, you better than you do, and in most cases, their cheap. Now, you will inspect the engine compartment, looking for holes with rust, and same idea applies here, if you have a small hole in a part of the engine compartment you can patch without problem in the firewall you will have no choice but to patch holes that you find them. Now that you have completed the process of inspection and repair, you can start rustproofing car, it starts shooting a couple or three layers of acid-etching primer on the car, then following that of seam sealer, I use 3M fast and firm, but you can use what you want. Once you've hidden the seems, leaving about 1 / 8 inch on each side of the seam, you can welding the whole car, all you have to do is press the seam sealer to the seam, then run top with your finger to push it into the seams of the car. Once you have joined sealed the whole car, you have 15 ROPs, the inside of the car, POR 15 is a rust proof, damn near bullet-proof paint to protect your car as long as you drive, it should never be used on the exterior of the car though. Once you have the underside of the car painted with POR 15 you can take precedence over the rest of the car, and you should be protected against rust. Posted on June 9, 2010.
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